Nepal Annapurna Trek Update

So after our inspiring week staying with the families in Chitwan, the group split, with about half travelling back to Kathmandu to commence the Everest Trek; while the others travel to Pochura for the start of the Annapurna Trail. After a week of 100% Dhal Bhat, the Annapurna crew got stuck in to some overdue Western style eating and shopping, even managing to squeeze in a very English picnic in the middle of a road island. Very scenic indeed. Before leaving the comforts of tourist town, the group began to mentally prepare for the trekking ahead.The first day of trekking was relatively simple, in respect that the direction of travel wasn't continually upwards. Even the hot, midday sun was defeated with a 'mountain fresh' dip in the glacier river. After several hours walking we pulled up to the tea house where we would retire. After a sweat-busting shower, the group gathered to play cards. Next day was literally the stairway to heaven. With the direction up, up, up; the day was a definate thigh and bum muscle workout. General chat and singing did make the day pass. However the thought of bed and Nepalease tea more than spurred most on. Now at our highest altitude so far, the group manged to pull together for a 4am start, where we would travel up Poon Hill to get a spectacular, panoramic sunrise view of the Annapurna range. Unfortunately, the British weather crept in, but even with some cloud on the horizon, it was still well worth the extra effort. Little did we know it wasn't the early start that had this day marked; but the ongoing battle against the leeches. Though only several centimetres long, they proved more than mighty enough to make these hard-worn trekkers squirm!The group will contine for several more days in order to reach Annapurna Base Camp, and already we have seen numerous ecosystems and cultures of these mountainous regions. Who's to say what will await in the upcoming days?

By Rob McCormick

09B3 (9-14 May) - Completion of Xunantunich boundary & Elijio Panti Mayan ceremony and project

The group has now completed their first project! A 10 foot wide, 6 kilometer circular boundary and fire-break around the excavated ancient Mayan city site: Xunantunich (‘Stone lady’). We started our last day of cutting the boundary as a well-oiled machete and raking caterpillar-machine (6 days of ‘hardcore gardening’ graft has turned the group in physical warriors) and after just an hour of cutting the last 700 meters the boundary was complete! We trekked back along the entire length of boundary (GPS-ing and mapping as we went) as a lap of honor and to congratulate ourselves on just how much we’d cut. Further celebration involved a final session of temple-top yoga on the park Catillo overlooking the surrounding jungle, an early ‘proper’ wash, being transported across the river one-by-one in a homemade canoe by two very helpful local chaps (we’d missed the last cable ferry) and some well earned food and drink in town.

A brief stop at field base in San Ignacio allowed the group to wash/burn their sweat, mud and blood encrusted kit, count their bites /splinters/cuts (and treat them) and relax before embarking on our next project: cutting a 20km northern boundary to the Elijio Panti National Park.

We were happy to return to our original base where we’d been both jungle trained, and enchanted by the beautiful jungle and incredible cascade waterfall system (not to mention the palatial visitor centre, Palapas, water-fall camp, toilet block, steps and changing facilities built by previous Trekforce expeditions to encourage sustainable eco-tourism within the park).

Recently a Mayan man from Punta Gorda experienced an intense vision essentially involving a giant eagle taking him to a cave where within lay hundred of piles of slain jungle animals. A healer of the animals told him of the slaughter and waste of precious animal life by human hunters and unsustainable greed, as well as teaching him how Mayan ceremonies should be conducted (using the finest natural offerings blessed and offered to the Mayan Gods in a specific way). The significance of this vision has resonated through the Mayan community in Belize and so, the ‘master’ and his entourage of family and community are travelling every Mayan site in Belize to conduct an offering ceremony and teach each local Mayan community this particular method.

Out of respect, we offered to retreat elsewhere and allow their two day ceremony to commence, but were collectively humbled by the Mayan groups kindness and warmth. We shared our camp, we watched the gathering of the offerings (a rainbow of natural products including huge beeswax candles, cacao, coffee, a rooster, a chicken, incense and a wide array of natural foods – all arranged beautifully on Bay and Cahun leaf alter, we were gently told “you eat what we eat, you drink what we drink, we are part of all the same family for this time”. Once the offerings had been prepared, the entire group (including the Punta Gorda Mayan group, Antonio - our beloved park warden, the heads of the Mayan society ITZAMNA and us) assembled and briefed, and had midnight come: the ceremony began in earnest.

We knelt and silently watched the Mayan group as they knelt and simultaneously, individually prayed aloud to Chac (the Mayan rain God) at the altar. Once the master had completed his prayer, the group blessed the offerings with chanting and the swirling of wonderful smelling incense pots around the alter in a continuous circle. We each participated in the blessing, before the offerings were carefully packed and the entire group formed silent line starting at the altar.

The Master then led us a kilometer or so to a huge cave which had been pre-selected as appropriate to make the offering and decorated with leaves. The Mayan group entered the cave (some barefooted!) with us close behind. 12 pounds of natural incense were then placed in a stone wall high on one wall and set alight. This created a raging fire consisting of huge six-foot cords of flame which coiled upwards around one another while producing clouds of black smoke. The fire, smoke and its effect on the cave’s bats (understandable mad swooping and squeaking) added to the already other-worldly feel of the night.

The master then dug a deep hole and the offerings were carefully laid within and covered, before five of the huge beeswax candles were arranged in a cross with the centre candle (placed directly above the offerings) representing the centre of the Mayan universe. We then again silently copied the Mayans as they each light a small candle from one of the large cross candles and knelt and to pray allowed. We think they were imploring Chac to accept the offerings, to send rain, protect Mayan sites and all jungle animals and plants and understand that the vision had been understood and is being acted upon.

Eventually the praying individually subsided and the group each sat in silence with their candle mounted on the cave wall until the fire burnt all the incense. This part of the ceremony is intended to allow each present to contemplate their concerns and request guidance from Chac. Each of our group used the hour and a half or so, to both gaze in dumb-struck wonder at the candle cross, the mounted wall candles and raging cracking fire lighting up the cave, and to have our own personal ruddy good think.

Once the fire burnt away, the mood instant became celebratory and the Mayan group chattered and laughed as we all headed back up to camp to enjoy a feast of natural sweet coffee and chicken soup. It was a night no one will forget.

The next day we were allowed a hammock lie-in and then just a light day of trekking and surveying some of the boundary to be cut. The terrain was very different to Xunantunich. At Elijio Panti the jungle is high high, rugged, mountainous terrain, but although we could all see we were in for a physical challenge, we were suitably motivated by the ceremony and began cutting in earnest the very next day.

Update from Nepal

After 3 weeks in Nepal, I think all of the group are shocked at how quickly our time here is going. We have nearly finished our time in Rampur and soon the group will be splitting. half of the group are trekking to Annapurna base camp whilst the rest are heading for Everest Base Camp.

It seems like a long time ago that we were all meeting up for the first time in Kathmandu. A couple of us arrived a day early, whilst half of the group arrived a day late after very nearly landing in Kathmandu (the pilot missed the landing and they were forced to turn back to Delhi). They made it to Kalanki in the end though and dived straight into their Nepali lessons with Keshos enthusiastic chanting - we were woken up every morning with Shuva Bihani, Shuva Bihani. We spent the first week in Kathmandu, learning Nepali in the mornings, and sight seeing in the afternoon. highlights included exploring Thamel (and counting how many times we were offered tiger balm and hashish) visiting Patan and going to see the monkey temple. The group also spent the night in Lamater: Colin skived off with man flu so it was up to the rest of us to show off our dance moves after being treated to a show of Nepali traditional dancing. The next morning, we went hill walking which was hardwork but good practise for our upcoming treks. Worryingly Harriet seemed to be showing signs of altitude sickness....after 15 minutes of walking. Luckily she made a good recovery and was able to join us for noodles when we got to the top.

We spent one more night in Kathmandu staying in the Yeti Guest House in Thamel. That was the night of Nicks 21st and the group showed you can still organise a good party in just one afternoon in Kathmandu. Everyone had a really good evening, eating far too much food (mainly different variations on the Roadhouse special Pizza!) But everyone still managed to have room for birthday cake as well (the group was stocking up due to the impending dhaal Bhaat overload that was inevitable during our week long home stay). The evening ended by surprising Nick with a very special 21st birthday gift.....walking poles!! At least we know that it is something that he can use.

The next day we travelled to Chitwan, our drive was broken up by a three hour rafting trip. Some of us spent more time in the water than in the boat, thanks to our over- enthusiastic guide. We all did our best to stay in the boats during the rapids. Tim, impressively managed to hold on despite being swept overboard, but Jenny was less fortunate and ended up taking a swim. It was good fun though, and by the end Rob and Andy had given up on the boats and abadoned ship during the final rapids.

The group enjoyed the next few days in Sauraja whilst sharing ensuite bathrooms was the main highlight for many. We also had fun watching the sunset over the river, stalking the great jungle chicken, spotting Rhinos whilst riding our elephants and visiting the first baby twin elephants in Nepal. We were also treated to some Kama Sutra lessons from a pair of frisky teenage elephants.

All too soon we had to leave the comfort of our lodges in Chitwan and make our way to Rampur to meet our host families. It was a nerve racking time as we were led off in pairs to the houses that would be our homes during the stay. But having lived with our host families for a week now we all settled in and will be very sad to leave. We have all stuggled to make conversations with our limited Nepali attempted (and failed) to decling 2nd helping of Dhaal Bhaat, and made many trips into Rampur to supplement the Dhaal Bhaat diet with double butterscotch cones. We have also had great fun volunteering; whether is was causing chaos in the orphanage, trying to control the chaos in the classrooms or trying to recover with some theraputic digging in the nursery. So although there have been difficulties (dealing the sweltering heat, the intermittent power and the endless supply of dhaal Bhaat) we will be taking away with us many priceless memories. For some of us taking 23 children to Rampur for ice creams tops the list and for others the sports day we organised.

So even though we are sad to be leaving the kids in Rampur we are looking forward to starting our treks. We all know it is going to be tough but heopefully we will be able to distract each other with conversation which will revolve, as it has done for the past 3 weeks, around food, bowel movements and the thickness of our mattresses.

09B2 Blog #2 - Project work at Xunantunich by Caroline

With bleary eyes after a wild night at fieldbase, we headed out to Xunantunich (Mayan for ‘Stone Lady’), an ancient Mayan temple complex. Our mission at Xunantunich was to clear the boundary of the 56 acre site, in order to help prevent wildfires damaging the site and to enable the Belizean Defence Force (BDF) to protect the temples and surrounding jungle from hunters, loggers and other ‘baddies’. We set up camp, clearing areas for bashas and communal areas with our machetes - a small taster of the days to come. The camp was situated next to the BDF residence where they strolled the perimeter by day and played dominoes late into the night.

After a night of paranoia and suspicion from the usual suspect (Luke) we ventured out to walk the park boundary under the guidance of Marcus (a park warden) and 3 armed BDF soldiers. This escort seemed excessive to begin with, but turned out to be a vital part of our troupe when we came across a couple of men on horseback, who were initially feared to be Guatemalan banditos! Luckily they turned out to be Belizean hunters, who were given a stern ticking off for hunting so close to the park boundary. Further along we encountered a swarm of bees that weren’t pleased with our presence and started to attack - after much confusion and scrambling over a barbed wire only Marcus was stung.

The next morning (after our daily fix of porridge) was the first day at work - we knew what we had to do but had no idea how utterly exhausting it would be. Hacking a 10 foot wide path into almost untouched jungle, cutting the trees to ground level, and then raking back all the leaves and vines in the hot Belizean sun was almost as much of a mental struggle as a physical one. Knowing there would be a packet of biscuits smiling up at you after a few hours made all the difference.

After the stress relieving aggression of a day slashing down the jungle, once the park was closed and Mike had ferried the last of the park wardens across the river on the winched raft we climbed to the top of the temple to watch the sunset and even practiced yoga in zen-like calm to stretch away the pains of the day. As the sun burst though the clouds above the jungle it was easy to see why the temple held such religious importance in Mayan times.

During the night when we were all nestled in our hammocks we were visited by what was presumed to be banditos but could have possibly been a tapir, and woken at 3:40am by Howler Monkeys roaring across the canopy.

The next day we were given a ‘guided’ tour by a man who was the real life version of Cleeveland from Family Guy. The tour comprised of us looking around the visitor’s centre and then being shown the different areas of Xunantunich on a model, even though if you looked out of the door you could see the ruins themselves. One of his more memorable quotes was “people often ask me where the reservoir is… it is now under the car park”.

To wash away the ridiculous amount of sweat (a sweat equivalent of a snow angel was even made), we went down to the river to wash with the iguanas and the fish that nibbled at our freckles and moles, whilst the passing traffic and villagers watched from the other side. The only downside was the mile walk back to camp.

For our final day in Xunantunich Boo and I got up to the top of the temple to watch the sunrise and got to watch a thunder storm with lightning striking the waking jungle.

We finished the boundary and celebrated with the ancient Mayan reward of rum and coke, followed by a ‘meat flavoured’ sauce and a trip into town, getting a lift across the river from some local lads in a sinking canoe.

Zinc oxide tape - £2.99
Machete - $40
Belize, sunset on top of Xunantunich - priceless

Belize - April Update

Jungle Training

After being met at the airport by Al, the Expedition Leader, we headed out to Elijio Panti National Park visitor centre for the first leg of our jungle training. We were met by Boo, Oz, Cat and Antonio, the park ranger and rainforest encyclopaedia. If there is a tree plant or animal in existence in the forest, Antonio knows what it is. After the initial introductions had been made and a surprisingly civilised cup of tea drunk, we cracked on with jungle training. Our first course was Personal Hygiene and Heat Related Illnesses led by the team medic, Cat. In the lesson our complete lack of heat related illness knowledge was shown up but by the end we had become experts.

The next lesson was on the contents of the belt kit. The belt kit is the belt we have to wear at all times containing the things we use regularly and an emergency kit in case we get lost.

And so we spent our first night in our hammocks which passed uneventfully except for me falling out and ripping my mosquito net from its hangings and having to try to fix it in the pitch dark.

After 2 days we moved onto another part of the park and Boo took us through fire lighting which everyone excelled at bar Tom and I, who took so long to light a fire that Antonio had to build it for us.

The following day, Al, Our great leader took us through river crossings at the top of a huge cascading waterfall, at the bottom of which was possibly the most beautiful wash point ever! River crossings were very exciting even if it did feel slightly strange walking into a river in your full clothes and belt kit.

At 4am the next morning an emergency casevac practice drill was sprung on us and we had to Boo's (our snakebite victim) leg, simulate a radio call for a helicopter and carry him on a stretcher to the HLS (Helicopter Landing Site). All of which according to the instructors went very well.

Tino, our Jungle Warfare Instructor an the hardest man alive, showed us how to survive in the jungle with just our machete, including chicken slaughter and preparation (very grim), fire lighting, trap building and how to build a five star hotel room with nothing but a machete and some Kuhune leaves. As if the morning hadn't been stressful enough it was sprung on us that our last evening of jungle training would be spent alone building our own basha sites and cooking our own food.

To say the night passed eventfully is an understatement. Tino shot a 7 foot Fur-de-Lance, I thought I had got poison wood on me, but that turned out to be a false alarm, Tom continued where he left off and took half an hour to light his fire, but regardless of all of this, we survived and were very proud the next morning.

And so, despites Caroline's determination to cut herself on every surface, Tom's worrying obsession with his machete, my all encompassing paranoia of everything in the jungle, Oz's epic snoring, Lucy's relentless enthusiasm for nature regardless of it's ability to harm her. We passed jungle training.

Papua New Guinea - 1st 2009 Update

The Team arrived in Port Moresby to a celebrity style receptions with a number of journalsts and photographers wanting to find out more about this group of crazy Brits who were coming over to live in the Jungle for up to 4 months!

The group then took a spectacular flight across the central highlands to LAE airport where theywere met by Trekforce staff and transported to Jungle training in the remote village of Gabensis. The team were really thrown in the deep end and their first night in the Jungle will be one that many of them will never forget. The next two days involved both lectures and practical sessions from Adam and Alex in Jungle Survival. The team then trekked deeper into the Jungle with local Jungle Guru Sam where they established a camp to begin phase 2.

Sam was a real encyclopedia of knowledge and taught everybody alot about Jungle plants and wildlife and their practical uses. There were many encounters of the creepy crawly king including Stick insects a multitude of spiders, Catapillers and the ever annoying mosquitos. One trekker also had a close encounter with a wild pig whilst trying out the new jungle toilet!

With Jungle training completed the team have really bonded, we are now all heading by boat to the tropical paradise of Salamaua before trekking to our project site on friday.

Next update due in approx 3 weeks so watch this space!

Adam

Expedition Leader Training - Month 1!

The Welsh adventure of the expedition leadership course has been completed and we are about to depart to the polar opposite of extreme heat, humidity and all the hygienic unpleasaentries that ensue in such weather. It was somewhat surreal doing our Summer Mountain Leadership Training in 60-70 mph bitterly cold winds and the blizzards that have wreaked havoc upon on the rest of the country. We were not deterred by such trivialities and all successfully completed the intense one week course in the spectacular Snowdonia National Park. A variety of skills were leant, developed and put into practice over the week from macro/micro navigation, camp craft and rope work skills.

Our first 2 weeks prior to the training had been spent with the course instructor, Colin, or White Fang as he has been so endearingly been called. Colin ensured that we were up to scratch with our base skills by taking us into the mountains and doing his utter best to get us to pay attention long enough in a classroom environment. There has been a lot to learn and the realisation of the enormity of the responsibilities of an expedition leader encompasses has sunk in. One of the classes on the legalities of becoming a leader asked "is it worth it?" and the although the answer isn't a simplistic yes, it is certainly a resolute one and the enthusiasm that has been continually displayed by us all highlights our determination to become what we have set out to do.

A strong bond has developed between us all and I think we all shared some pre-training anxiety about those we would be spending an intimate amount of time with for the next 6 months. Luckily they were quickly dispelled with the first hand of cards in which abuse and banter was freely hurled around. Emma,the solo female in the group has coped very well in what is often a juvenile male environment and has bought radox and candles to compensate. Pictionary has become a new found favourite game though am still slightly bemused my Rob's and Henry's response to my picture of a tiger, Sri Lanka and men holding guns which they conjured up the answer of "Sri-Lankan tiger hunters"... the covert operations of the Tamil Tigers can be rest assured in their anominimity from the pair of them. But it has been a laugh a minute throughout the three weeks, but we have been suprisingly focused when the moment has required it... not sure Colin would entirely agree though... not that he hasn't joined in from time to time either!

So off we go to Belize. Crutch rot cream, bug spray and every other toiletry that will help with our comfort has been packed away. We're all excited about the next chapter of this course and what lays ahead, the new skills that will develop and I'm sure what will amount to an unforgettable experience.