Borneo- February 2010 Update

Borneo - Kelabit Cultural Site Project

Freshly jungle trained, we traversed the logging roads from Bario further into the Kelabit Highlands towards our project site – the primary jungle around Kampong Pa’ Main. With brimming rucksacks and riotous enthusiasm, we left the 4x4’s behind and trekked deep into the rainforest.

The group was collectively keen to use their new jungle skills and once we had located a suitably beautiful spot, we set about building possibly the greatest ever jungle camp. Our tireless leaders (Al and Oz) and expert jungle guides (Rian, Andrew, Ramli and Juing) built a massive bamboo table, fire place and firewood rack while Nick (the furniture designer turned jungle craftsman) led the team in building benches, a water collection pier, a bamboo bridge and a wide range of camp mod cons. The quality of personal basha’s varied from the sublime to the ridiculous with Andy and Nick’s palatial residences providing a stark contrast to Fran’s unkempt-back-garden-after-a-child’s-birthday-party.

With camp set up, we began our cultural and environmental project in earnest. We had been tasked by the Kelabit Association (the Kelabits are one of ten Orang-Ulu – ‘men of the interior’ - indigenous tribes in Sarawak) with the protection of ancient cultural sites in the highland region. The cultural sites include stone megaliths (which were carried to their location by Kelabit warriors to prove their strength and mark sacred areas), funeral jars (intricately carved pots jars containing the ashes and heirlooms of deceased Kelabits) and animal salt licks. Their conservation involved mapping the site location and then cutting, marking and mapping 250 square metre boundaries around each site. This process makes it illegal for both logging and palm oil companies to bulldoze the marked areas and so - as well as protecting the cultural heritage of the Kelabit people - the boundaries additionally protect the rainforest and abundant wildlife within. The proliferation of cultural sites in the Pa’ Main area - and our marking of them - means this entire area of rainforest is now protected.

A daily routine of trekking to different cultural sites (lead by our local guides), photographing and GPS marking the sites before unleashing our perangs (traditional Malaysian machetes) to cut and mark clear boundaries was established. The group’s collective skill in jungle navigation, communication, machete-ing and line searching (for lost perangs and compasses) developed immeasurably over the following weeks, despite Simon’s talent for breaking steel perangs (seven so far) and Louise’s hilarious navigational directions (‘The line goes to that tree! The green, normal sized one! The one with leaves!).

The variety of cultural sites was outstripped by the incredible difference in terrain surrounding the area. Any particular day could find us trekking and cutting our way through jungle swamp land, dense primary rainforest, open meadows, wide river channels and up and down sheer jungle cliffs.

Jaki (our beloved hunting dog) and our guides also provided much appreciated variety in the staple jungle diet through hunting and gathering a wide range of jungle food. We have now acquired a taste for all sorts of jungle meat (wild boar, sambo and barking deer, monitor lizard, fish and - the frankly rank - cicada grubs), fruit (mata kuching, bua pua, sun berries, jack fruit, lang sat and durian) and vegetables (bamboo shoots, river ferns and sago palm).

One site – at which we spent two full days – was old British Military site from WW2 and the ‘Konfrontasi’ with Indonesia during the 1960’s. The Kelabit people developed a passionate and lasting bond with the British soldiers stationed there during these conflicts. The Kelabit provided jungle scouts, guides and food in exchange for military support (including the establishment of blow pipe units!), clothing and education programs. We cleared years of relentless jungle growth to discover a huge bunker system and numerous artefacts including shell casings, military clothing and whiskey bottles (sadly empty).

Once we had exhausted the cultural sites within trekking distance of our camp, we packed down our temporary Kampong (village) and trekked yet further into the jungle. Prior to moving, however, Al and Oz sprung a ‘simulated survival scenario’ (SSS) on us. We were taken individually to an isolated part of the jungle and left with 2 packs of noodles to survive for 12 hours by ourselves. Suspicions this challenge was given so that the leaders could enjoy a night of peace, roast boar and moonshine in the guide’s shelter remain to this day. The heavens opened during the SSS briefing and we experienced the heaviest rain of the trip so far for the next 12 hours. Needless to say, many of the group used this as an excuse to sack off building a fire and opting for a very early night indeed.

The following day we trekked over the main mountain ridge and set up Kampong 2. This camp was truly idyllic being braced by two rivers, filled with wild lime and other fruit trees and home to countless tropical birds. The camp even developed distinct areas - such as, the ‘meadow’, ‘village green’ and ‘blue lagoon’, in which to relax and talk cobblers after a hard day’s boundary cutting.

In total, we have now cut, marked and mapped boundaries around 29 different Kelabit sites and in the process protected a huge area of mixed rainforest and the wildlife within. We celebrated completing our main project, 28 straight days in the jungle and our final night there with a massive BBQ of two wild boar yumm.

Two solid days of trekking from Pa’ Main all the way back to our base in Bario and some much needed r’n’r (rest and recuperation? rest and relaxation? rock and roll? rum and raisin?) Followed before we began our final project – building two bamboo bridges for the remote community of Pa’ Umor.

Pa’ Umor is the home of our beloved guide Rian and these bridges would help his community to reach their paddy fields and farms which surround the village. We were invited to stay in the Pa’ Umor longhouse (which houses nine entire families) for the week and were honoured to be truly welcomed into the community.

This more relaxed project involved trekking into the jungle near the village, cutting down enormous bamboos and constructing sturdy bridges over the deep river channels. Each day after work, the group enjoyed football, volleyball and swimming with the local children before being served incredible home-cooked pineapple curry.

Our final night on project was spent celebrating in Rian’s house bar where we were treated to demonstrations of the Kelabit war dance, the traditional ladies dances and some icey cold beers. We suspect that Andy’s interpretation of the war dance and our karaoke talents will remain in Kelabit folklore for some time.

Tels- April Update

After a day recovering from the India Creek trek we were travelling to eljilo panti San Antonio. Where we met Antonio our guide, a jolly fellow of few words, and proceeded on an hour and a half walk laden like mules in the baking sun. This initiated the scenario phase, a phase where at any point day or night anyone could fake being lost, injured, or in Jamie’s case becoming suddenly suicidal, where upon it would fall upon us to deal with the scenario. For Example when Anya collapsed in the mid day sun Adam clean shaven and clad in his wicker hat bounded to her rescue as he valiantly commanded us to put her on a stretcher and move her into the shade, however, his heroically left the two genuinely ill people to cook… poor guys . We then moved onto the ranger station where we set up camp and cooked dinner and waited for a sleepless night of scenarios. Some Scenarios went well the injured were dealt with well and carried out quickly and efficiently.

Other were less smooth with Sam dealing with a fake snake bite by strapping Dom’s leg to a tree. After four days of scenario after scenario we left Elijio Panti and ended up riding on the back of a pickup truck back to a lazy few days in San Ignacio. Whilst there we were in pairs and went off to do project Recce’s around the country to find good future projects for Trekforce. Some pairs meetings were just down the road. Others like Sam and Adam were sent to a far flung fishing village called Sarteneja.

Once we had all returned from our project Recce’s we returned to Elijio Panti to begin navigation training. This is where we had to pace on a bearing in a large box shape for 800 meters which is more difficult than it sounds as Jamie’s large 300 meter triangle proved. On the actual day of the assessment we found the Americans could not navigate with Dan not being able to tell his left from his right and Elise getting confused by her compass and thinking south was north, you would think the S on the compass would be a giveaway. None the less she ended up 400 meters away lost in the jungle. It took only moments for Colin to dash off alone into the jungle. Luckily his superior navigation skills meant he quickly found Elise and got back in time to realise Dan and Jamie were also missing. In the end we all managed to pass navigation, and moved on to practicing casualty evacuation down a waterfall which is about as tricky as it sounds, especially when the raft was made with wood about as buoyant as lead. However, we managed it anyway J…

Belize February Phase 10– March/April

After completing the basic jungle training, the trekkers and TELs headed to San Ignacio to begin the ‘grueling’ training for the Ruta Maya Canoe Race (4 hours of poncing about on the river). Teams were chosen by Colin and Jade, and the Trekkers were split into 3 boats: HMS Cheeseburger driven by Taylor, Mike and Katie; The Gobi Desert Canoe Association led by Stephen, Gavin and David; and Josh joined Colin and Jade in the Lame Ducks. With about 30 hours of paddling the 170 miles over 4 days and limited bags of flapjacks and bananas, the Trekkers beat the TELs in the Trekforce race. The Gobi Desert Canoe Association earned the gold with a 70 second advance on team Spitroast, the TELs top team. Upon arriving in Belize City, that night we went out on the town and stocked up on essential post race supplies; pizza and coke. We then had a fun night and a delicious breakfast at a local guest house before setting out for advanced jungle training.

On our way to becoming Jungle Warriors (the next level up towards becoming a Jungle Ninja Pirate) we set up camp at Jaguar Paw and began our training. Marcos the Jungle Jedi began teaching us about local flora and fauna, advanced navigation, how to follow different types of trails, firelighting, shelter building and how to make successful animal traps. All did not necessarily go to plan however, Jade “trapped’ six chickens from a local market but one particularly fast rooster led the entire camp on a frantic chicken chase through the jungle.

Dave’s medical skills were tested when Anya, our medic, fell from a tree in a mock rescue scenario and the rest of us had to carry her across the river and up a steep hill on a stretcher. Unfortunately, Anya wasn’t the only casualty – Colin decided to drown himself in the river with the hope of a rescuer, but no one paid him any attention… just kidding. In a camp game of Cluedo Dave was taken down by John (a TEL) with a bottle of deodorant while taking Anya’s vitals. The fun continued when Katie celebrated her 19^th birthday with coke and chocolate ice cream floats.

For the first time ever, the Trekkers and TELs experienced 2 belt kit nights – we had to build our own shelters, fires and animal traps. Our rations then reflected the success of our traps. Notable events included Stephen accidently burning down some of his shelter then redeeming himself by winning the live chicken in the trap making contest, Gavin witnessing a vine snake eat a lizard, Mike chopping down a cohune tree to eat, Katie’s close encounter with a snake and Dave’s battles with ants and a scorpion. After two successful nights the Trekkers and TELs parted ways and we headed off to begin our project.

We have now been in the jungle for almost two weeks, working with a crazy monkey lady to facilitate and assist with a census of rehabilitated and released rare black howler monkeys. We’ve been having fun clearing trails, tracking monkeys and building a kick-ass camp featuring a fire shelter, clothes rack, benches (complete with back rest) and a table. In our free time we have visited the Belize Zoo, swam in the Sibun River, and helped Dave compose entertaining songs on the guitar. Overall, we are having a great time and very much looking forward to the challenge of trekking up Victoria Peak in a few weeks!