Thursday, 28 May 2009

Update from Nepal

After 3 weeks in Nepal, I think all of the group are shocked at how quickly our time here is going. We have nearly finished our time in Rampur and soon the group will be splitting. half of the group are trekking to Annapurna base camp whilst the rest are heading for Everest Base Camp.

It seems like a long time ago that we were all meeting up for the first time in Kathmandu. A couple of us arrived a day early, whilst half of the group arrived a day late after very nearly landing in Kathmandu (the pilot missed the landing and they were forced to turn back to Delhi). They made it to Kalanki in the end though and dived straight into their Nepali lessons with Keshos enthusiastic chanting - we were woken up every morning with Shuva Bihani, Shuva Bihani. We spent the first week in Kathmandu, learning Nepali in the mornings, and sight seeing in the afternoon. highlights included exploring Thamel (and counting how many times we were offered tiger balm and hashish) visiting Patan and going to see the monkey temple. The group also spent the night in Lamater: Colin skived off with man flu so it was up to the rest of us to show off our dance moves after being treated to a show of Nepali traditional dancing. The next morning, we went hill walking which was hardwork but good practise for our upcoming treks. Worryingly Harriet seemed to be showing signs of altitude sickness....after 15 minutes of walking. Luckily she made a good recovery and was able to join us for noodles when we got to the top.

We spent one more night in Kathmandu staying in the Yeti Guest House in Thamel. That was the night of Nicks 21st and the group showed you can still organise a good party in just one afternoon in Kathmandu. Everyone had a really good evening, eating far too much food (mainly different variations on the Roadhouse special Pizza!) But everyone still managed to have room for birthday cake as well (the group was stocking up due to the impending dhaal Bhaat overload that was inevitable during our week long home stay). The evening ended by surprising Nick with a very special 21st birthday gift.....walking poles!! At least we know that it is something that he can use.

The next day we travelled to Chitwan, our drive was broken up by a three hour rafting trip. Some of us spent more time in the water than in the boat, thanks to our over- enthusiastic guide. We all did our best to stay in the boats during the rapids. Tim, impressively managed to hold on despite being swept overboard, but Jenny was less fortunate and ended up taking a swim. It was good fun though, and by the end Rob and Andy had given up on the boats and abadoned ship during the final rapids.

The group enjoyed the next few days in Sauraja whilst sharing ensuite bathrooms was the main highlight for many. We also had fun watching the sunset over the river, stalking the great jungle chicken, spotting Rhinos whilst riding our elephants and visiting the first baby twin elephants in Nepal. We were also treated to some Kama Sutra lessons from a pair of frisky teenage elephants.

All too soon we had to leave the comfort of our lodges in Chitwan and make our way to Rampur to meet our host families. It was a nerve racking time as we were led off in pairs to the houses that would be our homes during the stay. But having lived with our host families for a week now we all settled in and will be very sad to leave. We have all stuggled to make conversations with our limited Nepali attempted (and failed) to decling 2nd helping of Dhaal Bhaat, and made many trips into Rampur to supplement the Dhaal Bhaat diet with double butterscotch cones. We have also had great fun volunteering; whether is was causing chaos in the orphanage, trying to control the chaos in the classrooms or trying to recover with some theraputic digging in the nursery. So although there have been difficulties (dealing the sweltering heat, the intermittent power and the endless supply of dhaal Bhaat) we will be taking away with us many priceless memories. For some of us taking 23 children to Rampur for ice creams tops the list and for others the sports day we organised.

So even though we are sad to be leaving the kids in Rampur we are looking forward to starting our treks. We all know it is going to be tough but heopefully we will be able to distract each other with conversation which will revolve, as it has done for the past 3 weeks, around food, bowel movements and the thickness of our mattresses.









Friday, 22 May 2009

09B2 Blog #2 - Project work at Xunantunich by Caroline

With bleary eyes after a wild night at fieldbase, we headed out to Xunantunich (Mayan for ‘Stone Lady’), an ancient Mayan temple complex. Our mission at Xunantunich was to clear the boundary of the 56 acre site, in order to help prevent wildfires damaging the site and to enable the Belizean Defence Force (BDF) to protect the temples and surrounding jungle from hunters, loggers and other ‘baddies’. We set up camp, clearing areas for bashas and communal areas with our machetes - a small taster of the days to come. The camp was situated next to the BDF residence where they strolled the perimeter by day and played dominoes late into the night.

After a night of paranoia and suspicion from the usual suspect (Luke) we ventured out to walk the park boundary under the guidance of Marcus (a park warden) and 3 armed BDF soldiers. This escort seemed excessive to begin with, but turned out to be a vital part of our troupe when we came across a couple of men on horseback, who were initially feared to be Guatemalan banditos! Luckily they turned out to be Belizean hunters, who were given a stern ticking off for hunting so close to the park boundary. Further along we encountered a swarm of bees that weren’t pleased with our presence and started to attack - after much confusion and scrambling over a barbed wire only Marcus was stung.


The next morning (after our daily fix of porridge) was the first day at work - we knew what we had to do but had no idea how utterly exhausting it would be. Hacking a 10 foot wide path into almost untouched jungle, cutting the trees to ground level, and then raking back all the leaves and vines in the hot Belizean sun was almost as much of a mental struggle as a physical one. Knowing there would be a packet of biscuits smiling up at you after a few hours made all the difference.

After the stress relieving aggression of a day slashing down the jungle, once the park was closed and Mike had ferried the last of the park wardens across the river on the winched raft we climbed to the top of the temple to watch the sunset and even practiced yoga in zen-like calm to stretch away the pains of the day. As the sun burst though the clouds above the jungle it was easy to see why the temple held such religious importance in Mayan times.

During the night when we were all nestled in our hammocks we were visited by what was presumed to be banditos but could have possibly been a tapir, and woken at 3:40am by Howler Monkeys roaring across the canopy.

The next day we were given a ‘guided’ tour by a man who was the real life version of Cleeveland from Family Guy. The tour comprised of us looking around the visitor’s centre and then being shown the different areas of Xunantunich on a model, even though if you looked out of the door you could see the ruins themselves. One of his more memorable quotes was “people often ask me where the reservoir is… it is now under the car park”.

To wash away the ridiculous amount of sweat (a sweat equivalent of a snow angel was even made), we went down to the river to wash with the iguanas and the fish that nibbled at our freckles and moles, whilst the passing traffic and villagers watched from the other side. The only downside was the mile walk back to camp.

For our final day in Xunantunich Boo and I got up to the top of the temple to watch the sunrise and got to watch a thunder storm with lightning striking the waking jungle.

We finished the boundary and celebrated with the ancient Mayan reward of rum and coke, followed by a ‘meat flavoured’ sauce and a trip into town, getting a lift across the river from some local lads in a sinking canoe.

Zinc oxide tape - £2.99
Machete - $40
Belize, sunset on top of Xunantunich - priceless

Monday, 11 May 2009

Belize - April Update


Jungle Training

After being met at the airport by Al, the Expedition Leader, we headed out to Elijio Panti National Park visitor centre for the first leg of our jungle training. We were met by Boo, Oz, Cat and Antonio, the park ranger and rainforest encyclopaedia. If there is a tree plant or animal in existence in the forest, Antonio knows what it is. After the initial introductions had been made and a surprisingly civilised cup of tea drunk, we cracked on with jungle training. Our first course was Personal Hygiene and Heat Related Illnesses led by the team medic, Cat. In the lesson our complete lack of heat related illness knowledge was shown up but by the end we had become experts.


The next lesson was on the contents of the belt kit. The belt kit is the belt we have to wear at all times containing the things we use regularly and an emergency kit in case we get lost.

And so we spent our first night in our hammocks which passed uneventfully except for me falling out and ripping my mosquito net from its hangings and having to try to fix it in the pitch dark.

After 2 days we moved onto another part of the park and Boo took us through fire lighting which everyone excelled at bar Tom and I, who took so long to light a fire that Antonio had to build it for us.

The following day, Al, Our great leader took us through river crossings at the top of a huge cascading waterfall, at the bottom of which was possibly the most beautiful wash point ever! River crossings were very exciting even if it did feel slightly strange walking into a river in your full clothes and belt kit.

At 4am the next morning an emergency casevac practice drill was sprung on us and we had to Boo's (our snakebite victim) leg, simulate a radio call for a helicopter and carry him on a stretcher to the HLS (Helicopter Landing Site). All of which according to the instructors went very well.

Tino, our Jungle Warfare Instructor an the hardest man alive, showed us how to survive in the jungle with just our machete, including chicken slaughter and preparation (very grim), fire lighting, trap building and how to build a five star hotel room with nothing but a machete and some Kuhune leaves. As if the morning hadn't been stressful enough it was sprung on us that our last evening of jungle training would be spent alone building our own basha sites and cooking our own food.


To say the night passed eventfully is an understatement. Tino shot a 7 foot Fur-de-Lance, I thought I had got poison wood on me, but that turned out to be a false alarm, Tom continued where he left off and took half an hour to light his fire, but regardless of all of this, we survived and were very proud the next morning.

And so, despites Caroline's determination to cut herself on every surface, Tom's worrying obsession with his machete, my all encompassing paranoia of everything in the jungle, Oz's epic snoring, Lucy's relentless enthusiasm for nature regardless of it's ability to harm her. We passed jungle training.